This year, American journalist Cathy Hue and British musician Julian Shah-Tayler spent their ten-day honeymoon in this unique place.
Bhutan is not a country in which travelers can spontaneously stop over during a trip to India or Tibet. It takes planning. We were introduced to Lotay a year prior to our wedding, through an American friend who had lived and worked in Bhutan. Lotay and his brother Fin, run a custom guided tour organization called Bridge to Bhutan. Both brothers went to college and lived in the U.S. for years, so they not only speak English perfectly, but also understand a westerner's approach (and paradigm) to traveling in a foreign country.
We had a fairy-tale wedding in one of the wealthiest countries in the world (England), so we wanted to have a contrasting honeymoon on several levels. I am lucky to be well-traveled in my profession, so I generally like to visit countries that will challenge me, and where western influence is minimal. Bhutan was at the top of my list. It was a relief for us on our honeymoon to have an organizer like Lotay handle the reins and trust that he would know how to take care of us based on our dozen emails prior to the trip. Unless one has Bhutanese family, there is no other way of getting into the country without an “invitation” by the government, and for this invitation, one must go with an organized tour guide. In many cases, travel in a developing country can be a cheap trip, Bhutan is not, however the uniqueness of the experience is worth every penny.
http://www.bridgetobhutan.com/
Our 10-day custom itinerary entailed a “cultural immersion program”; a private road trip that stretched from the west side of Bhutan (Paro airport) into central Bhutan via the city of Thimphu. Most days involved an easy-to-moderate trek to ancient Buddhist monasteries and Dzongs (fortresses) and going through the various landscapes of Bhutan, from city to country, through forests and mountains. Given Bhutan’s oral-based history, our guide, Tsheltrim “Tim” (and driver Sonam) shared stories they were told throughout their lives, yet Tsheltrim thoughtfully tried to balance out Bhutanese history with just as much reason, as myth and legend. Unlike Tibet and Nepal, there is no class structure and no surnames. The Bhutanese language is Dzonga. Here is what our 10-day journey looked like
DAY 1: Arrived into Paro, Bhutan (from Kathmandu, Nepal).
a) The PARO AIRPORT is award-worthy for its architectural beauty and uniqueness. Long horizontal lines, Jenga-like wood blocking, and symbolic paintings on the exteriors is distinctly and unilaterally Bhutanese architecture & design.
b) Greeted by Tim & Sonam and driven to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital. We are told Bhutan is carbon negativel, meaning the country soaks up more greenhouse gases than it emits. (Bhutan is the only country among 194 U.N. members to formally declare that it is carbon negative). Seventy-percent of the country is forested.
c) About a 45 minute drive from Paro Airport, our first stop driving into Thimphu was the === bridge/Stupa.
d) IN THIMPHU, we hit the weekend farmer’s market, CHANGLINGMETHANG MARKET, where local goods take up the 2nd floor and imported goods from India cover the 1st floor. Bhutan is the first country to commit to being 100% organic this year, 2013. Given its reliance on subsistence farming, their agricultural land is already organic by default. Despite being geographically nestled between India and China, it is very clear here that Bhutan’s political ties to India are stronger.
DAY 2: IN THIMPHU - BHUTAN’S CAPITAL CITY
a) Visited Tashichho Dzong: Administrative headquarter of Thimphu; summer residence for the Chief Abbot and the monk body; Office of His Majesty; the Finance Ministry and the Gross national Happiness Commission.
b) Moderate hike to Cheri Monastery up in the woods (2.5 hour hike round trip). Zhabdrung Nawang Namgyel (first ruler/ unifier of Bhutan) built this monastery in 1620 and established its first order of monks here
c) The Takin Preserve, Bhutan’s national animal.
d) National Institute for Zorig Chusum, witnessed how the new generation of Bhutanese artists are being trained at “the painting school” = the 13 forms of traditional arts and crafts.
e) Traditional handmade paper factory. See how paper is made:
f) Kunselphodrang: the world’s largest sitting Buddha. The statue alone is being built at a cost of US$47 million, by Aerosun Corporation of Nanjing, China. The interior will accommodate 100,000 8-inch-tall and 25,000 12-inch-tall gilded Buddhas respectively.
g) Memorial chorten/stupa, a favorite spot for locals where people of all ages gather every morning and evening to accumulate karmic “merit”. The stupa was built in 1974 in honor of the late Third King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, popularly known as “the father of modern Bhutan”.
DAY 3: 5-6 hour DRIVE TO PHOBJIKHA VALLEY
a) DOCHA LA PASS - 360 panoramic view of the Himalaya mountain range. DRUK WANGYAL CHORTENS 108 STUPA cluster.
b) Nature hike in the valley of PHOBJIKHA VALLEY (aka Pig Victory Valley) world renowned for its annual winter visit from the Bhuddist revered Black-Neck Cranes that migrate from Tibet. Impressive Hotel Dewachen’s interior is reminiscent of a Swiss chalet – wood burning stove in the center of restaurant where they also crisp toast is enchanting.
DAY 4: PHOBJIKHA VALLEY - – WILDLIFE CONSERVATION ZONE a) Visit to 17th century (great) MONASTERY of GANGTEY GOEMBA, AKA Ganteng Monastery has three stories and a rooftop spire. There is an international renovation effort to restore the priceless and crumbling religious murals. A napping area for dogs.
b) Drive to BUMTANG, stopover at a nomadic spot notable in the Bhutanese film, Travellers and Magicians. (2003)
DAY 5: BUMTANG – CULTURAL HEART OF BHUTAN a) Explore 7th century Jambay Lhakhang, one of the two oldest temples in the country and hike to KURJEY LKAHKANG, where it is believed that 8th century Guru Rinpoche had meditated here and subdued a local demon, leaving an imprint in the rock.
b) Explored Bumtang village and purchased a handmade baby swaddle/carrier.
DAY 6: TRONGSA – GEOGRAPHICAL CENTER OF BHUTAN a) Trongsa Museum: Once an “all-seeing” watchtower for the Trongsa Dzong below in its view; this circular museum is the most contemporary building we visited. Like many of Bhutan’s landmarks, this building at one point- burnt down and was rebuilt in the same fashion, without fire codes our guide says.
b) Trongsa Dzong: This Dzong is situated on a hill spur looking over the cascading Mangde River. This fortress had once served as the capital for the Governors of eastern Bhutan and later served as the capital of first and second Kings of Bhutan.
c) One of our favorite hotels built into the surrounding hill, and in beautiful view from the Trongsa Dzong, the Yangkhil Resort.
DAY 7: PUNAKHA = FORMER CAPITAL OF BHUTAN a) Hike through rice fields to the DIVINE MADMAN TEMPLE, CHHIMI LHAKHANG. Bold symbols & phallus paintings on the houses and temples of Bhutan are a result of the Divine Madman “Drukpa Kunley” Also known as the Temple of Fertility, it is believed this temple blesses couples who seek fertility. Pictures of blessed couples/parents are kept inside the temple where a monk bonks you on the head with a wooden phallus.
DAY 8: PUNAKHA DZONG/FORTRESS
a) The Punakha Dzong/Fortress is situated between the two rivers Pho Chy and Mochu (male and female river). This Dzong had serve as the capital seat of the Kingdom for more than 300 years. The shingle-roof fortress is said to have feminine energy.
b) KHAMSUM YULEY MAGEY LHAKHANG TEMPLE? - cantilever bridge and through rice fields presents a great view of the valley below.
c) All shopping done in PARO. Local currency, the Bhutanese ngultrum and U.S. Dollars accepted.
DAY 9: TIGER’S NEST MONASTERY in Paro
a) All hiking endurance practiced throughout this trip, lead up to the Tiger’s nest monastery hike (1-day). “Built in the 1600’s, this identifiable monastery clings to the edge of a sheer rock cliff. It is said that 8th century Guru Rimpoche, the tantric mystic who brought Buddhism to Bhutan, landed here on the back of a flying tiger to subdue a demon. Guru Rimpoche is believed to have meditated here for three months and it is considered one of the holiest sites for Buddhists.” – Bridge to Bhutan
b) Cultural Highlight: LOCAL FARMHOUSE – drank butter and moonshine
DAY 10: BUH-BYE BHUTAN
REFERENCES/SOURCES: Bridge To Bhutan 245 Lower Changangkha Thimphu 00245 Bhutan Tel: 975-2-331766 Fax: +975-2-338118 URL: http://www.bridgetobhutan.com E-mail: info@bridgetobhutan.com We organize bespoke Luxury & Classic - memorable Journeys for solo traveler, family, and small group-to BHUTAN (the Last Shangri-La), for the Discerning Traveler. All travel programs are designed to accommodate guests' interests and they are not set in stone. Happy Travels! http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/the-high-road http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhutan http://www.littlebhutan.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/BHUTAN-TOURISM-MONITOR-Annual-Report-2012.pdf http://bhutan-360.com/record-number-tourists-visit-bhutan-2011/ http://images.businessweek.com/ss/06/10/happiest_countries/source/9.htm
